Torre Brunico - Ottovolante (7a+)
Pictures taken by Marcel and Kathrin on July 25th, 2007

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A wonderful summer day starts, as we approach Torre Brunico in the Sella group. Ottovolante (7a+), the route we want to climb, is 12 pitches long and runs over the sunny pillar in the center of the picture, just about where the border between sun and shade is. |

| The route starts fulminantly with a steep wall full of big holes like an Emmental cheese. Absolutely awesome to climb, and despite steep and athletic, not too hard (6a). Kathrin is following this first pitch. |

| Beautiful view to Sas Ciampac
on the sunny side, which also holds some good routes. Be aware that
Ottovolante is north facing, so except for the hottest summer days, it
will be too chilly to climb it. And even on a hot day (34
degrees Celsius in the valley) as when we did it, bringing thermo
underwear or even a down jacket, a hat and gloves for belaying is not
too stupid an idea... |

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Well, the climbing keeps you warm. Kathrin follows the third pitch (6a), which is again very steep and athletic for the grade. Although it is not a Via Ferrata and you have to climb between the bolts, the lower part is well equipped. However, in the upper pitches, the bolts get more sparse... |

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Next belay, next panoramic picture. This is the view to Grödner Joch/Passo Gardena and the Cirspitzen. The Dolomites are truly beautiful. Forests, alpine meadows and sheer grey rocks on top. |

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Kathrin mastering the first test in the route, the fourth pitch (6b+). It's nothing to be afraid of, good protection, good holds, just a little bit athletic - some of the 6a+ up higher are definitely harder! |

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Cool picture, isn't it? That's the view down to the road leading from Corvara to Passo Gardena. Traffic is horrendous on summer days, especially on weekends. However, this is not disturbing when you climb, since you can neither hear nor smell it - it's actually fun to watch cars, buses and motorbikes moaning and racing up the pass. |

| Tataaa! This is the crux pitch (7a+). And, please note: no tricks with the rope, which is hanging down vertically. So it must be quite steep and overhanging here, mustn't it? Indeed, this pitch is 35m long and about 5m overhanging. The crux is a short and well defined move over the lip of a roof (can be aided). But also the rest of the pitch is very sustained climbing in the 6b(+) range, and with only 8 bolts in total it's not over-protected, either. |

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Kathrin pulling the last few holds towards the belay after the crux pitch (7a+). |

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Next belay, but this time it's way too airy to enjoy the view ;-) No no, I'm just kidding. This belay is very exposed, but as a frequent climber, you get used to that and are not bothered by it at all. It still makes for a nice shot, however. |

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Kathrin following the ninth pitch, a really hard 6a+. Especially the start of it requires some prudence, as it's steep, not trivial, and a little runout with chances of a bad fall onto the belayer. The terrain eases up in the second part of the pitch, but the bolts get rare, too. |

| Higher up, the view widens. In front again the Cirspitzen, and on the horizon, the characteristic Geislerspitzen. |

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Kathrin follwing the tenth pitch (6a+), maybe the least attractive of the route, since it is a little forced, the rock comparably not so nice and a nasty runout is waiting at the end. But don't misinterpret this: the route is absolutely outstanding! Steep, sustained with excellent rock offering pockets varying in size from two fingers wide to one foot wide. |

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Yeah, she has a good laugh as this is at the end of the sunny and slabby 12th pitch (6a+), which marks the end of the route. What can I say: this is one of the best pieces of rock I've ever climbed, and the ambiente was perfect - both the climbing and the atmosphere reminded me a lot on Chant du Cygne on the north face of Eiger. |

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Once on top, you have to climb a short arete and the reach the altiplano of the Sella group. This means, it's basically flat on the summit! But it's a gorgeous scenery, outerwordly, like on the moon. You have to traverse until you reach the trail that is leading down to Colfosco along the Val Setus. Cool rocks up here, too. This crack/chimney system is somewhat tempting... |

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This is the downclimb in Val Setus, an easy, Via Ferrata type descent. It's actually funny to pass all the tourists here, who tensely hold on to the steel ropes, and, when you are almost down already, still seem to be in the same place ;-) |

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Look back to the glowing face we climbed: Ottovolante is on the prow of the left pillar. The steep central pillar hosts "Oro e Carbone" (7a), another five star route that from now on is our project - we will definitely be back! |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 20.8.2007 |