7. Kirchlispitze - Komet (6a+)
Pictures taken by Marcel Dettling on July 18th, 2007
| This is
our goal for today: climbing through the south face of the 7.
Kirchlispitze. The route "Komet" has first been done in fairly bold style
by Peter Schoch around 1985. In recent years, a few bolts were added. It's
a very worthwhile climb with a sequence of 4 homogeneous pitches in very
nice limestone. |
| We accessed the start of the route (which is the first 6a+ pitch) using the "Neuseeländerweg", or maybe a variation thereof. We didn't find anything to clip, but the going is easier here and placing gear is possible. |
| Yeehaa, and here we go! Chris
following the first pitch of "Komet", whose original grade is 5c+.
However, I don't know what should be any easier here than in the following
three pitches, so I'd say 6a+ is adequate. It's a tricky dihedral:
squeeze, jam, stem, layback. Everything is required, but nothing works
really well. |
| The second pitch (6a+) first offers a friction traverse on underclings... it's not terribly difficult and more of a psychological problem than anything else. But it's really cool! |
|
Chris managed the traverse and now has to pass an athletic bulge to reach the belay. PS: Watch the nice rock below! |
| Done it is! Also this passage looks more intimidating than it actually is. Nice climbing! |
|
As always, there is plenty of time for enjoying the view. Nice ambiance with clouds in front of Drusenfluh Westgipfel. This wall also holds dream routes like "Mangold" (6c), "Yume heisst Träume" (7a+), Konflikt (7b) and so on... |
| The third pitch of Komet (6a+) offers a steep slab in structured limestone and some cannelures. In the crux section, the holds disappear and the footholds are not too good either. Duable though! And I must say, I was glad that this one bolt was added between the two old ones: that was quite runout before... |
|
Chris exiting the third pitch. Some comments on the protection: I would recommend a full rack of Rocks and Friends for optimal protection. However, all the necessary bolts are there... but judging from the maillons, carabiners and webbings in several of the bolts, quite a few people have been turned around in this route. |
|
Chris exiting the fourth pitch (6a+). It first follows a dihedral that has one tricky move (small holds, difficult to step up and keep the balance). Then, you have to leave the dihedral to the left (bolts, but different kind/hangers), and not to continue straight, where there are bolts too. |
|
Chris continues into the fifth pitch (5a). The summit is near and the climbing gets easier here. |
|
You can get down from the Kirchlispitzen by walking down the backside and returning via Schweizertor. Time to say goodbye: 5. Kirchlispitze to the left, 6./7. Kirchlispitze in the middle, then the lower wall below Schweizertor, and finally to the right Schweizereck. We'll be back! |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 18.7.2007 |