Sardinia - Aguglia di Goloritze - Solo Incantatore (6c)
Pictures taken by Kathrin and Marcel on October 15th, 2007
| Another
beautiful day starts... we have breakfast in our apartment under the
rising sun, with a perfect view to the sea below and decide that today is
going to be the day to climb Aguglia di Goloritze! |
| We chose the drive&hike-in approach via Baunei, because friends had told us about their experience with renting a boat: it was bloody expensive and they had some additional hassles too. And some walking can never hurt, especially because the scenery is nice. Here, the famous Aguglia comes into view. It's the point in Italy which is said to be the most difficult to reach, since the easiest way up is by technical climbing in grade 6b. |
| A close-up: our route, "Solo
Incantatore" is on the north face on the left side. It's a bit tricky to
find the start, because there are several routes. "Solo Incantatore" uses
the first pitch of "Sinfonia a Mulini di Vento", which is only protected
by a few old, rusty pegs, none of which would withstand a serious fall. I
really recommend to bring some nuts for the first pitch (it can be well
protected), it's dangerous else. Also note that the original grade of 5b
is a serious sandbag: it's more like 6a+, awkward and polished... |
|
However, the ugly sequence is just about 15m long. What follows, is a dream! Sustained, tricky technical and fingery climbing on perfect limestone with many gouttes d'eau. Here, Kathrin is following the third pitch (6c). |
|
It's not only the climbing, it's also the ambiance. I bet the bay of Cala Goloritze is one of the most beautiful places along the entire Mediterranean coastline, with crystal clear water! |
|
Kathrin, coming into the belay after the third pitch (6c). "Solo Incantatore" is very well protected, but despite being known as one of the easier routes on the Aguglia, it's not a via ferrata: 6b is obligatory and especially here in pitch 3 you really have to climb that between the bolts. Maillons in several of them witness that quite a few people don't make it to the top. |
|
Awesome views included, as for example towards this amazing rock formation over the sea. And while belaying, there also remains some time to think about the grades. I don't quite agree with the ones given in my topo, though they do vary from edition to edition. So here's my version: L1 6a+, L2 6b, L3 6c, L4 6b+, L5 6c. |
|
Kathrin following the difficult and compact slab of the fourth pitch (6b+). She seems a little concerned about me being distracted by taking pictures, and the fact that there is some slack... Good equilibrium and calm nerves are required here, else you won't get anywhere... |
|
But after all, I found that the fourth pitch passes quite well, and is easier than pitches 3 and 5. Having a good ape index and being tall may for once really help here, though. Anyway, Kathrin made it and has the final jugs of the fourth pitch (6b+) in her hands. |
|
The bulge at the start of the fifth pitch (6c) is also quite demanding. Once this is mastered, gentle plaisir climbing in the 6a/6b range leads to the elusive summit of Aguglia di Goloritze, a mere 143m above sea level. A long-term dream came true for me, also because, despite it was challenging and I had to fight for it, I could master the route in the cleanest of all styles: on sight! |
|
Rapelling goes quickly, especially with two 50m ropes (3 rappels required). You can also rapell with one 60m rope, though. And then, the sea attracts - we went for a swim, the water was still around 25 degrees :-) Last, the hike back to the plateau where the car is parked follows: it includes 450m of elevation gain and takes about 1 hour. |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 26.10.2007 |