Chli Glatten: Le Coeur de la Mer (6c)

Pictures taken by Marcel Dettling on June 16th, 2007

Read my report (in German) with a description of the route and the gear that is necessary: Click here

 

That's the view of Chli Glatten Südpfeiler (south buttress) from just above the road over Klausenpass, from where the approach hike starts. It had rained the day before, during the night until early morning, so the rocks are partially wet. However, the Südpfeiler dries out quickly, and we could enjoy dry rocks for the entire climb.

 

 

That's a close up of the Südpfeiler with the route we climbed: "Le Coeur de la Mer" (6c).

 

Kathrin starting with the first pitch, where the protection is excellent. It is unclear to me whether one is allowed to stem over to the left (right in climbing sense), i.e. the other side of the chimney. However, at a certain point, this is no longer possible, and there you'll have to climb some moves at 6b anyway.

 

That's at the second belay, where, although I could hardly believe it, some mice live! You can see it in the chink. I don't know how they came here (50m from the ground over steep rock), nor do I know from what they nourish themselves. So be quiet and observe well, and you might see these cute little animals.

 

Kathrin on the third pitch (6a+). You can pull on the rock as much as you want, nothing will come off here. The grey limestone is extremely solid, rugged and rough here. Absolutely awesome climbing!

 

Kathrin exiting the crux passage on the 4th pitch (6c). It's a quite hard, slightly overhanging section on small holds which has to be dealt with. Also note the fog around us - it came very quickly, the temperature dropped rapidly and it gave us a truly alpine feel.

 

And as quickly as it came, the fog moved away again. Kathrin coming up to the final belay after the 5th pitch. Both rock and climbing stay excellent until the very last moves. After Vesper (6b), Südpfeiler (6b), Herbstwind (6c+) and Trabant (6b+), this was my 5th route at the Chli Glatten, and each of them provided excellent and interesting climbing. We'll be back, as there are some 30 more routes waiting.

 


Picture Galleries/Home Marcel Dettling, 19.6.2007