Chli Glatten: Le Coeur de la Mer (6c)
Pictures taken by Marcel Dettling on June 16th, 2007
Read my report (in German) with a description of the route and the gear that is necessary: Click here

|
That's the view of Chli
Glatten Südpfeiler (south buttress) from just above the road over Klausenpass,
from where the approach hike starts. It had rained the day before, during the
night until early morning, so the rocks are partially wet. However, the
Südpfeiler dries out quickly, and we could enjoy dry rocks for the entire
climb. |

|
That's a close up of the
Südpfeiler with the route we climbed: "Le Coeur de la Mer" (6c). |

|
Kathrin starting with
the first pitch, where the protection is excellent. It is unclear to me
whether one is allowed to stem over to the left (right in climbing sense), i.e. the other side of the
chimney. However, at a certain point, this is no longer possible, and there
you'll have to climb some moves at 6b anyway. |

|
That's at the second
belay, where, although I could hardly believe it, some mice live! You can see
it in the chink. I don't know how they came here (50m from the ground over
steep rock), nor do I know from what they nourish themselves. So be quiet and
observe well, and you might see these cute little animals. |

|
Kathrin on the third
pitch (6a+). You can pull on the rock as much as you want, nothing will come
off here. The grey limestone is extremely solid, rugged and rough here.
Absolutely awesome climbing! |

|
Kathrin exiting the crux passage on the 4th pitch (6c). It's
a quite hard, slightly overhanging section on small holds which has to be dealt
with. Also note the fog around us - it came very quickly, the temperature
dropped rapidly and it gave us a truly alpine feel. |

|
And as quickly as it
came, the fog moved away again. Kathrin coming up to the final belay after the
5th pitch. Both rock and climbing stay excellent until the very last moves.
After Vesper (6b), Südpfeiler (6b), Herbstwind (6c+) and Trabant (6b+), this was my 5th route at the
Chli Glatten, and each of them provided excellent and interesting climbing.
We'll be back, as there are some 30 more routes waiting. |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 19.6.2007 |