Eldorado - Motörhead (6a+)

Pictures taken by Marcel and Kathrin on July 7th, 2007

 

It took me 15 years of climbing in Switzerland until I first visited the Eldorado. And I can tell you, it's very well worth it. Already the approach hike along the Grimselsee is very beautiful and the climbing is just stellar! Here you can see Kathrin on the first pitch, which starts with some gentle slab climbing (4a).

 

 

But already in the second pitch (5c), the entry test is waiting. Although there is a bolt in this slab, some delicate, unprotected friction moves are required before you can clip it. And if you screw it up, you'll slam on the ledge below. Moreover, just before the belay, a first steep layback passage provides another test of your skills.

 

You have to be warm before you start the third pitch (6a). This dihedral is mastered in a combination of jamming and stemming moves. It gets steeper and steeper towards the end. The crux comes after the bolt, where you have to exit the crack with some friction moves.

 

This is Kathrin on the sixth pitch (5c), which is probably the most beautiful of the route. It starts with very nice face climbing, before you regain the big dihedral system that offers wonderful layback climbing. Here, Kathrin just removes one of the cams - the route has only very little fixed protection, about 1-2 bolts per pitch. However, gear can be placed frequently and there are hardly any dangerous and scary passages.

 

Another party in the butt smooth slabs of Septumania (6a+), which is, besides Motörhead, the second big classic on Eldorado. It's less cracks and dihedrals, but more slabs and friction climbing.

 

Kathrin masters the crux of the 7th pitch (6a). You can see it, the rounded crack doesn't have a sharp edge with good handholds anymore, so the going gets tougher. And if you are lead climbing this pitch, extra efforts are required to place the protection.

 

That's the view of the last four pitches of the route, where another party is already climbing. The granite dome with the clear lines cut by dihedrals and cracks is just awesome, I'd say.

 

Kathrin has a good laugh, as this is past the crux. The 6a+ passage is face climbing that is well protected by (one single) bolt. Below you can see the leader of the Italian party which was behind us - really friendly and skilled guys they were.

 

Kathrin and the lake in pitch 9, a relaxing 4b with gentle slab climbing. I wonder why no one ever had the idea to offer a boat service, shuttling climbers from Grimsel Hospiz to Eldorado and back. On sunny summer days like this one, I'm sure it would pay well.

 

This is the view to Unteraargletscher and the peaks of Finsteraarhorn (left, 4267m) and Lauteraarhorn (right,n4042m). So you see, Eldorado doesn't just offer fantastic climbing, it's also in a very beautiful, alpine setting.

 

Kathrin coming into the belay after the 10th pitch (5c), proudly presenting our new climbing pack. It makes sense to bring some food and drinks on these rather long routes - it definitely makes for a cozy summit supper, too.

 

The last pitches are pretty stiff again. This flake looks easy, but it harbours one difficult move (5c) that cannot be aided and isn't too well protected, either. But once used to the granite after 11 pitches, you'll surely do it ;-)

 

We didn't switch the lead, but I gave the camera to Kathrin. This is the really cool dihedral on the 13th pitch (6a). It has a well defined crux just above the bolt, where the crack gets thin and the friction is not that good. Protection is good, but the most difficult moves cannot be aided, either.

 

The sky is the limit... or one could also say, the climbing is so good, that you hope it wouldn't end after 14 pitches. This is the second last one (5c), which I combined with the last one - this can be done with 50m ropes.

 

Ok, I would like to thank my sponsor Hanwag for the great trekking shoes they provided... though they are not really the right peace of footwear for the descent. It is in very muddy terrain, where rubber boots would be the adequate outfit (not a joke!). Hmm, hope you enjoyed the pics and come back soon to see our latest adventures.

 

Picture Galleries/Home Marcel Dettling, 23.3.2007