Scalet delle Masenade - Via Calabretto/Verri (6b)
Click here to get some further information about the route and/or buy a topo
Pictures taken by Marcel and Kathrin on August 1st, 2007
| This is
the wall that we are going to climb: the prominent black streak a little
left of the picture's center is the famous "Via Decima", also known as "Colatoio
Nero" (black gully). Our route, the "Via Calbretto/Verri" runs in straight
line about 20m to the right of it. |
| The access from Passo Duran was quickly done, it takes a bit more than one hour to get to the base of the climb. Here, Kathrin follows the first pitch, which is gentle slab climbing in 4+ style. |
| This is the second pitch
(5c). It's exactly 50m long. It starts with a bulge, continues with some
slabs and terminates with a dihedral. There is no fixed protection
available and you have to search the route by yourself... as it's not
always obvious where to go, some experience in route finding and
self-protection is mandatory. |
| As I already mentioned it, there isn't much fixed material around. There are 2 bolts in the third pitch (6b) and another one in the sixth pitch (6a). IMPORTANT: all additional bolts which are shown in some topos are chipped! So, especially on the fifth pitch (6a) that Kathrin is following here, I was a little bit on doubt whether we were still on route. |
|
But I made my way to the belay (just go straight up all the time), and can enjoy the view in the southern Dolomites and to Rifugio Carestiato. Placing gear in Calabretto/Verri isn't too easy and requires some experience, but every 5-7m there is an opportunity for a good piece. Some self-confidence and secure climbing at 6a is still necessary, however. |
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That's me, leading the sixth pitch (6a). The climbing is very steep and constantly overhanging here, but the holds are excellent, one better than the other - a pure pleasure to climb! |
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After the sixth pitch of Calabretto/Verri, we traversed into the gully of Via Decima. I can recommend this very much, since the two exit pitches of the former are nothing special, but the top of the latter is outstanding with outerworldly rock formations. Remember that the route was a black streak from the bottom, but from the top, the rock is silver-grey! |
| And though it looks very smooth and slabby, it isn't at all! The going is very steep here, with excellent holds all the way. Protection is good, too, since there are numerous, solid rock tunnels. I'd recommend that you, as a variant to the original route, climb the last few overhanging meters of the gully straight up, with difficulties in the 5b/5c range. |
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This is at the top of the route, which finishes on this ledge, somewhere in the middle of the mountain. One would really like that it continued for a couple more pitches, so good and special it is! |
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You have to walk/scramble to get down again. But this descent is very beautiful, too. Excellent panorama, interesting rock formations with some pools, ... |
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...and a big variety of very beautiful flowers! I had never seen Edelweiss in such abundance as on this descent before. Nice scenery, fun climb, perfect weather - what a day! |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 21.8.2007 |