Gross Bielenhorn: Niedermann/Anderrüthi (6a+)
Pictures taken by Marcel Dettling on June 10th, 2007
Read my report (in German) with a description of the route and the gear that is necessary: Click here
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The peak with the sunny
face is the Gross Bielenhorn, seen from Sidelenboden during the approach. The
face which is in the sun is the south face, the southwest face with our route
is to the left and still in the shade. |
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There was still a lot
of snow on the approach above the Sidelenhütte. Smart as we were, we only wore
shorts and sneakers, which made the hike to a veritable "Tubel Trophy"... the
snow was bloody cold and painful on our lower legs, and the shoes of course
totally soaked. No reason to turn around, though! |
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View of the face from right below with the route. |
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View to the summit from
the first belay. You have to traverse back left into the dihedral, and not to
continue the cracks straight up, where there are bolts, too! |
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Fantastic, sustained and strenuous layback climbing on the second pitch (6a). |
| Kathrin laybacking up one of the
smoother sections of that pitch. |
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You have to apply all
kinds of techniques to move up this dihedral. Push, pull, lean, layback,
whatever works best for the given configuration of hand- and footholds.
Finding the right solution for the problem the rock poses is one of the major
and marvelous challenges in rock climbing. |
| View from the second belay to Galenstock
(3586m) with its SE-ridge. |
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View up to the summit
from the 3rd belay. |
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View from the 4th belay upwards. The route first follows the
big dihedral and the traverses to the secondary dihedral system on the left. |
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Kathrin following the
5th pitch (5c+). Very nice and steep climbing on good holds here! |
| That's the beginning of pitch 6. The
wide crack here requires some innovative moves ;-) |
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Kathrin coming into the belay after the 6th pitch. Despite
being at 3000m above sea level, it was warm enough to climb in just a T-shirt
and shorts. |
| Yeehaa, we made the summit! Kathrin
finds her way through the big boulders to the final belay. |
| Picture Galleries/Home | Marcel Dettling, 12.6.2007 |