Sardinia - Scogliera di Biddiriscottai - L'alchimista (6c+)

Pictures taken by Kathrin and Marcel on October 14th, 2007

Day 2

Welcome to Sardinia! We took the "classic" approach to get to the island, drove our car to Livorno and took the night ferry to Golfo Aranci. All in all cheaper than a flight plus rental car, with less hassle regarding the luggage and it doesn't take more time, either: you arrive in the morning after a good nights rest and are ready to climb!

 

 

And off we go to Scogliera di Biddiriscottai, to climb Alchimista (6c+). Access to this route is by rapelling in from the top. Finding the route is quite easy: follow the gravel road on the flanks of Monte Irveri almost to its end. About 60m before you reach the end, there is a small wooden board on the left, maybe some cairns and well visible path marked with red or black paint - this is the right one.

 

Then pay attention: the first belay station on the right (has both a new and an old anchor) is for bungy jumping, don't use it! Just a few dozen of meters below is the correct rappel anchor. One 60m rope is sufficient - and the ambiance, coming from the top and rapelling to the sea, is fantastic.

 

At least you don't get wet feet, once you are at the bottom, you can easily walk around at the base of the route and if the sea is not too rough, you could even go for a swim (all rocky terrain, so it might be a little scary to get in and out). And the Grottona dei Colombi just next to the route is just awesome!

 

But the only way back to civilization is by climbing up again... or you have to swim. The latter is hardly realistic, as it's very far to the next beaches. It might also be possible to scramble along the shore for the most part, but don't count on this! However, climbing up is the best solution: the first two steep pitches are bolted very well: I can confirm 6a+ as the obligatory grade. In the middle part of the route, the bolts are a bit further apart, and 6a+ is obligatory there as well, but it's nothing to be afraid of.

 

Kathrin climbing the first pitch (6b+), that goes really well for the grade. It's overhanging quite a bit, but the holds are excellent all the way. The second pitch (crux, 6c+) is even steeper. You have to follow a diagonal ledge with sloping holds, and very bad footholds. The best sequence isn't so obvious - I also had to use a textile hold to clip once - quite a bummer, since I did all the rest on sight.

 

This is Kathrin exiting the first, overhanging part. This stretch is graded 5b and unprotected, but I actually found it more like 3a or so. You just have to be confident to go for 20m without any possibility to clip.

 

The rock is awesome here in the fourth pitch (6a+): vertical climbing on tiny, but sharp and good holds. And you regain more and more exposition to the sea. A really fantastic experience.

 

The fifth pitch (6a+) is as good as the fourth one. Perfect rock with numerous gouttes d'eau, steep climbing and the blue sea behind. Yeeeehaaaaa!!!

 

Rough stuff over rough stuff. Also the sixth pitch (6a) is very beautiful in sharp and structured rock. And the sea below got wilder and wilder as we climbed. It was even a little intimidating from up here and I'm sure that in these conditions, it would be nearly impossible to safely get in or out at the base.

 

And an adagio furioso for the end: in the seventh pitch (6b), some athletic moves on tiny holds are required to pass the final, overhanging bulge. I'm proud that I shot the picture in the right moment exactly, so that you can see all the power and concentration which is required... and the sea is going crazy behind ;-)

Day 1

That's a quick look back to day 1. After we arrived at Cala Gonone, we drove to beautiful Cala Fuili and climbed two routes (Nameless 6a, Sixteen 6b) on the beach and the did some more in the Caletta Fuili: among others, I onsighted "Condom Stress" (7a) in Grottone Vip and was finally able to redpoint "Vertebra di Molfetta" (7a+) at sector Thailandia in the 4th go :-)

 


Picture Galleries/Home Marcel Dettling, 26.10.2007